Only Yu Onsen Hakone — Modern Toji Resort Guide 2026

• Only Yu (モダン湯治 おんりーゆー) — A modern hot spring resort in Minamiashigara, near Hakone Explore Mt Fuji & Hakone on a full-day trip with sukiyaki lunch, Hakone Cruise, Ropeway & Shinkansen return

• pH 9.5 alkaline water: Skin-beautifying properties, soft and smooth after-feel

• Forest rotenburo: Outdoor baths surrounded by broadleaf trees

• Samue loungewear included: Relax all day in comfortable Japanese clothing

• Day trip friendly: 10:00 AM – 9:30 PM, with free shuttle from nearby stations Get the Yokohama Seaside Gourmet Train Pass — combine transport & dining for a perfect bay area day out

• Best for: Couples, solo travellers, wellness seekers

• Access: 60 min from Tokyo by car, ~90 min by train + shuttle

• Budget: ¥2,500–3,500 (day trip), ¥15,000–25,000 (overnight)

• Reservation: Recommended for weekends and holidays

Overview

KlookExperience Only Yu Hot Spring Resort in Hakone — an intimate onsen retreat with premium bathing facilitiesLearn more →

Quick Links

Most visitors to Hakone head straight for the well-known onsen towns: Yumoto, Gōra, or Lake Ashi. Few make the short detour south to Minamiashigara, where a different kind of hot spring experience awaits — one that reimagines the traditional Japanese practice of tōji (hot spring therapy) for the modern traveller.

Only Yu (officially Modern Toji Only Yu) opened with a simple premise: give guests time, comfort, and excellent water, and let the forest do the rest. There are no crowded baths, no rushed time slots, no resort-style entertainment. Instead, you check in, change into samue (traditional Japanese loungewear), and spend the day moving between baths, relaxation rooms, and complimentary activities at your own pace.

For a broader overview of Hakone's hot spring options, the Hakone onsen complete guide covers the major areas. For day-trip onsen strategies, see the Hakone day trip onsen guide. Only Yu is a complement to these — a quieter, more intentional experience that rewards guests who value quality over quantity.

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Introduction: What Is Modern Toji?

Tōji (湯治) is a Japanese tradition dating back centuries — the practice of staying at a hot spring for an extended period (days or weeks) to treat specific health conditions. Only Yu takes this concept and adapts it for the modern lifestyle, where a full day of intentional relaxation can provide many of the same benefits.

The philosophy is simple:

1. Good water — alkaline hot spring water that softens the skin
2. Time — stay from morning until evening (or overnight) without rush
3. Environment — forest setting, natural light, quiet spaces
4. Mindfulness — complimentary activities that encourage presence

Unlike a typical onsen where you might spend 1–2 hours bathing and leave, Only Yu encourages you to settle in. The entry fee includes a samue set (top and pants), towels, and access to all facilities. You can bathe, rest in the tatami lounge, read, meditate, eat, and bathe again — all in a single visit.

Why Choose Only Yu Over Other Hakone Onsen?Discover Mt Fuji's 5th Station, World Heritage Center & Owakudani volcanic valley on this scenic Hakone day trip

KlookExplore Mt Fuji & Hakone on a full-day trip with sukiyaki lunch, Hakone Cruise, Ropeway & Shinkansen returnLearn more →

The Hot Spring Water

KlookDiscover Mt Fuji's 5th Station, World Heritage Center & Owakudani volcanic valley on this scenic Hakone day tripLearn more →

Water Quality

Only Yu's water is classified as alkaline simple spring (アルカリ性単純温泉). With a pH of 9.5, it is among the most alkaline hot springs in Kanagawa Prefecture.

Effects:

Commonly described as: Bihada-no-yu (美肌の湯) — skin-beautifying hot spring.

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Baths

Indoor Bath (大浴場):

• Large windows facing the forest
• Temperature: 40–42°C
• Separate men's and women's sections (rotating daily)

Outdoor Rotenburo (露天風呂):

• Surrounded by broadleaf trees
• Temperature: 38–40°C
• Natural light throughout the day
• Bird calls and rustling leaves create the soundscape
• Rotating gender schedule

Private Family Bath (家族風呂 / 貸切風呂):

• Available for reservation (additional fee)
• 45-minute sessions
• Indoor only
• Good for couples or small groups who prefer privacy

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Facilities and Amenities

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Samue Loungewear

Upon check-in, you receive a set of samue — the traditional Japanese clothing worn by monks and craftspeople. This is central to the Only Yu experience: changing into samue signals the transition from everyday life to relaxation mode.

The samue sets are available in multiple sizes, clean and pressed. You wear them throughout the facility — in the baths (before and after), in the restaurant, in the relaxation rooms. It eliminates the need to change between street clothes and bathing wear multiple times.

Kakure-za Relaxation Room

The Kakure-za (隠れ座) is a large tatami room where guests can lie down, nap, read, or simply stare at the ceiling. Low ambient lighting, the scent of tatami, and distant forest sounds create an atmosphere that encourages genuine rest.

Etiquette:

• Keep voices low (others may be sleeping)
• No phones on speaker mode
• Shoes off before stepping onto tatami
• Photography allowed but be mindful of others

Library Corner

A small collection of books (mostly Japanese) about hot springs, wellness, and nature. The selection changes seasonally. Digital detox is encouraged — the library corner has limited mobile reception.

Suhari Cafe

The on-site cafe serves light refreshments:

• Matcha and coffee sets (¥500–700)
• Seasonal desserts (¥600–800)
• Soft drinks and fresh juice (¥400–500)

Yururi Restaurant

The buffet restaurant focuses on healthy, vegetable-forward Japanese cuisine:

Complimentary Activities

Only Yu offers a selection of free activities designed to complement the hot spring experience. These are included in the entrance fee.

Zazen (Sitting Meditation)

• Schedule: Daily, morning session (30 min)
• Location: Dedicated meditation space
• Instructor: Staff-guided (beginner-friendly)
• Language: Japanese with basic English guidance
• What to expect: Simple sitting meditation, no special clothing required

Japanese Calligraphy (Shodo)

• Schedule: Afternoon sessions (45 min)
• Materials: All provided
• What to do: Practice basic brush strokes, write your favourite kanji
• Take-home: Your work becomes a souvenir

Stretching and Relaxation Class

• Schedule: Morning and afternoon (20 min)
• Focus: Gentle stretches suitable for all ages and fitness levels
• Location: Kakure-za room or outdoor deck (weather permitting)

Seasonal Activities

Day Trip vs Overnight

Day Trip Plan

Day trip fee: ¥2,500–3,500 (varies by season) Includes: Samue, towels, all facilities, activities

Overnight Stay

Overnight guests can check in from 10:00 AM and stay until 12:00 PM the next day — up to 35.5 hours of relaxation.

Overnight fee: ¥15,000–25,000 per person (varies by season and room type) Includes: Day trip access + dinner + breakfast + futon accommodation

Some rooms include a private indoor bath with the same alkaline water — a worthwhile upgrade for couples or those seeking complete privacy.

Access

By Car

From Central Tokyo:
1. Tomei Expressway to Oi-Matsuda IC (40 min)
2. Prefectural Route 77 west toward Minamiashigara (20 min)
3. Follow signs to "Modern Toji Only Yu"
Total: ~60 minutes Parking: Free (100 spaces)

By Train + Shuttle

Option A: Odakyu Line
1. Odakyu Line to Shin-Matsuda Station (60 min from Shinjuku, ¥900)
2. Free shuttle bus (20 min, reservation recommended)
Total: ~90 minutes Option B: JR + Daiyuzan Line
1. JR to Odawara Station (35 min from Tokyo, ¥1,320)
2. Transfer to Daiyuzan Line to Daiyuzan Station (25 min, ¥400)
3. Free shuttle bus (8 min)
Total: ~80 minutes Shuttle bus: Runs 4–6 times daily.
Reservation required — call or book online at least 24 hours in advance.

Practical Information

Fees

Hours

What to Bring

Provided (included in fee):
- Samue (loungewear, top and pants)
- Large towel and face towel
- Sandals
- Lockers (coin-operated, refundable) Recommended to bring:
- Hair ties (long hair must be tied up in baths)
- Moisturiser (alkaline water can be drying after prolonged bathing)
- Small change for lockers (¥100 coin, refundable)
- Book or journal (for the Kakure-za room)
- Water bottle (hydration is important)

Rules and Etiquette

Do's:
✅ Wash thoroughly before entering any bath
✅ Tie up long hair before entering the water
✅ Use the small towel for drying (never dip it in the bath)
✅ Speak quietly in relaxation areas
✅ Enjoy the samue throughout the facility Don'ts:
❌ No tattoos (Japanese onsen policy — cover with patches if small)
❌ No photography in bathing areas
❌ No swimwear in the baths
❌ No infants with diapers in the water
❌ No food or drinks in the bath area
❌ No phones in the Kakure-za room

When to Visit

Best for solitude: Weekday mornings (before 12:00 PM)
Best for atmosphere: Autumn weekdays (colourful leaves)
Best for budget: Weekday day trips
Avoid: Weekend afternoons (busiest), national holidays
Seasonal recommendation: Autumn (forest colours + outdoor bath)

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is Only Yu suitable for people with tattoos?

A: Like most Japanese onsen, Only Yu does not permit tattoos in the bathing areas. Small tattoos can be covered with waterproof patches (available at the front desk). If you have large or multiple tattoos, consider reserving a private family bath instead.

Q: Can I visit as a same-sex couple?

A: Yes. The baths are gender-separated (rotating schedule), but the Kakure-za relaxation room, restaurant, and cafe are co-ed spaces. Same-sex couples can enjoy all shared areas together.

Q: Is English spoken at the facility?

A: Basic English is understood at the front desk. Signage has some English. The zazen and calligraphy sessions are conducted primarily in Japanese but are visual enough for non-speakers to follow.

Q: Do I need to book the shuttle in advance?

A: Yes — the free shuttle requires a reservation made at least 24 hours in advance. Contact the facility by phone or through their website.

Q: Can I bring my own food?

A: Outside food and drinks are not permitted. The Yururi buffet and Suhari cafe cover all dining needs.

Q: How does this compare to other Hakone onsen?

A: Only Yu is quieter, more intentional, and less tourist-focused than most Hakone onsen. If you want a social, bustling atmosphere, choose Yumoto or Gōra. If you want peace, solitude, and high-quality alkaline water, Only Yu is the better choice.

Last Updated: June 4, 2026 Written by: Anaba OffJapan Editorial Team

Share Your Experience

Visited Only Yu? Tips for combining it with a Hakone day trip? Join our community forum to share your experience!

Anaba OffJapan — Avoid the Crowds, Go Deeper into Japan.

Only Yu is not the most famous onsen in Kanagawa, and that is precisely its appeal. It offers something increasingly rare in Hakone's crowded hot spring landscape: genuine silence, space to breathe, and water that rewards slow soaking. Whether you visit for a day of modern toji or an overnight stay with private bath, the experience is defined not by what you do, but by how long you allow yourself to do nothing at all.

For more onsen options in the region, read the Hakone onsen complete guide, the Hakone day trip onsen guide, or the broader Kanagawa onsen guide.

⏰ Best Time to Visit

Early morning (8–10 AM): Peaceful atmosphere, fewer crowds, perfect for photos Late afternoon (4–6 PM): Beautiful lighting, local life, less crowded than midday

What I Recommend

• Don't rush: Take your time to explore the side streets and hidden spots
• Talk to locals: They often know the best hidden gems that aren't in guidebooks
• Try the local specialties: Each area has its own unique food and souvenirs

Things to Watch Out For

• Some shops close on weekdays or have irregular hours
• Parking can be challenging during peak seasons
• Cash is still king at many smaller establishments

Hakone Area

Best Times to Visit

• Lunch: 11:30 AM - 1:30 PM (busiest, make reservations)
• Cafe: 2:00 PM - 4:00 PM (relaxed atmosphere)
• Dinner: 6:00 PM - 8:00 PM (popular spots fill up quickly)

Payment Methods

• Credit Cards: Widely accepted at major restaurants
• Cash: Still preferred at smaller establishments and ramen shops Make your own ramen from scratch at Ramen Dojo Tokyo — a fun hands-on cooking experience
• IC Cards (Suica/Pasmo): Accepted at chain restaurants and cafes

Dietary Requirements

• Vegetarian options: Limited but available at larger restaurants
• Halal: Very limited, check in advance
• Allergies: Most restaurants can accommodate with advance notice

Useful Apps

• Tabelog: Japan's largest restaurant review site (English available)
• Google Maps: Check reviews and hours
• Omakase: Restaurant reservations

Conclusion

onlyyu onsen hakone offers a unique window into the diverse attractions of Kanagawa Prefecture. Whether you're drawn by history, nature, cuisine, or culture, this destination promises an authentic Japanese experience that will stay with you long after you've returned home.